I'm becoming obsessed with Lil River Canyon. I like it too much.
This weekend was awesome, it featured (in order of appearance): -Andrew -Haley -Brook(s) -Natalie -Taylor -Scotty F -Kenneth -Scotty G
And a few other folks... Needless to say we had a crew!
Highlight of the weekend? Andrew, Brooks, and I running the 1,2,3 sendtrain on Robin's Route (lizard wall) then splitting. Also, Haley sending her first 5.12!!! Classic-ness.
Soooo how about some details? I won't bore you too much with my blabber, but overall the trip was amazing. I got to meet up with my friends Alex, Zach, Adam, Kenyan, Jeff, and Steve (from England! ...get better soon, seriously). We started the trip off right climbing at the Buttermilks, and nearly destroyed our skin for the entire week in one day. I forgot how sharp the stone is out there.
The next day we went to the Happy's and crushed, I was trying every classic I could get my hands on, and Kevin and Donny were both destroying! The third day we went to the Sads, and damn the sads are good. Everyone seemed to pick a project out of the sads, so we decided to rest the next day, and then come back.
The rest day was awesome, we went up to the green church hot springs and celebrated Saint Patty's day the right way, passing a Gatorade bottle full of whiskey around. Ian and Lisa are both really cool (kick ass on the mountains this season, and send Los Locos... that bitch), and I recommend that anyone going to Bishop look for them and try to make friends (their location will probably be in or around the ice caves).
The 5th day was back to the sads, to do our projects. They were crushed, and then new projects were tried... I did al the moves on beefcake and was really psyched to go back to do that thing. The 6th day we went back to the Buttermilks.... It was pretty hot on day 6, and not much went down. I tried Stained Glass, but came away with nothing but bruised tips to show for it (note: mega sharp and super classic).
We had planned on going back to the Buttermilks our last day, but super high winds kept us on the tablelands, so I went to go try Beefcake again. After falling from the last v2 move twice (bloody hell...), I decided that was all I had and went to try other things. The day ended really chill like, and everyone headed to Ian and Lisa's for a little Brat grilling and beer drinking.
Good times... great oldies. I always end up wishing I had more time to travel after a week long trip, but that's how it goes I guess.
Thanks to everyone who let us crash out, cook, and bombard your places.... you know who you are. Also, much thanks to Alex for letting us borrow pads.
Here's a little video of some of our sends caught on tape.
A little update... I went to Little River Canyon this weekend and got reinspired on routes. I havn't been on a rope since last August and it really has been to long. The canyon is such an amazing place, and I can't wait to try everything I can there this summer. SO badass...
Routes that are worth noting from this weekend... Escapee (12b), Rocktoberfest (11d), and Touch of Gray (11d/12a). Also, the 11's on gray wall are all really outstanding. Can't wait to go back.
4 days until bishop... so psyched!
Last but not least, my boy Brooks Walker and his lady friend Natalie Hawley crushed the competetion this weekend at Sloperfest (HP40); both won their own advanced division... Nice job!
Damn son. Little rock city really is that cool. I find it hard to believe that I've haven't been there more. However, one thing I would like to bring to attention is the limited number of passes they hand out per day. Obviously I understand the limited number of spots, although I think it could handle at least 20 more people, but regardless, what I have issue with is the way the system is set up.
1. The 5am registration start time is ridiculous. That's 5am eastern time mind you, so 4am our time. Even still, Saturday morning the boulder field filled up in 8 minutes! I mean really, if it is going to fill up that fast anyway, the opening time should be 12am or something. At least that way if you don't get a spot, you have time to change plans.
2. Currently there is no way to give passes back. Example, you wake up at 4am to register, and luckily your Internet is blazing fast. Bam, you got a pass. Now you're blindly walking back to bed in the dark (BECAUSE ITS 4 AM!!), and you stub your toe so hard you break it. You're cussing, spinning round, and furious because you know you aren't going to be able to climb. Well, I'm sorry you broke your toe, but the greater tragedy is the fact you now own a pass that will never be used. It doesn't seem like being able to cancel a pass would be a hard thing to do. Common SCC...
Anywho.... Saturday was amazing. Sends galore, and good times to boot. Jon Hur was there and gave me my first real tour.
Coolest Problems I saw:
-Hulk
-Celestial Mechanics
-King James?? (Thing to the left of Celestial...)
-Interplanetary Escape
-Bedwetters
-White Face
-Instinct (sit)
-Biggie Shorty
-The law
-The shield
-Barndoor 3000
So far I've done only three on this list. And I know there are more problems to add to it. I need to go back! Soon.
Sunday pretty much sucked (although the shenanigans were amazing). We got to moss rock and everything was completely soaked. Eliminates were then tried. I hope it's better in two weeks.
Well yesterday was freaking awesome! A few of my friends and I went to good ole Horse Pens 40. The trip was a giant success. My good friend Kevin sent two of his projects (making for his hardest sends yet), Donnie made good progress on a couple of his projects (he also sent Slush Puppy), Taylor sent a problem (his first time to climb on HP sandstone), and I sent a couple of problems that I would have never dreamed possible a few months ago. Psyched! Anyway, it was a friggen sweet day with lots of energy in the air. Check out the video below of the two classics that Kevbo CRUSHED! Nice work friend.
Well happy New Year everyone! Hope every one's celebrations were good. Yesterday, the last day of 2008, proved to be an awesome day here in Tulsa. With amazing weather, crisp temperatures, and plenty of hard projects 2008 wrapped up the way it should have.... with crushing. Sean Dossett destroyed a long standing project on Avery Drive at the end of the day with very little light left, dubbing it Needles for New Years (V10). Good job man, you are crushing right now! I have video of Sean sending Needles for New Years, and should be posting it within the next week (maybe even today if I work fast).
I was really psyched to do two of Chandler Park's finest, Reef Direct and The North American. The North American was by far the best problem I have done at Chandler, super classic moves to an amazing jug finish.
Tomorrow holds more rock scaling, Oklahoma sandstone is begging to be held. So check back friends, more updates soon to come. Have a good New Years day!
Well I moved on from Destin feeling like a stuffed tick. Had fun with the family, but I'm glad the beach party is over. Tomorrow I set sail for North Carolina. Hopefully the weather is going to be good on Sunday, but it's not looking like it.... Shit! Ass! Oh well, maybe Rumbling Bald next time around. Monday holds a pretty long drive (read: 14 hours = heinous) from NC to OK. My girlfriend and I will have plenty of quality time in the car, and hopefully she wont get sick of me (read: pounding red bull and singing at the top of my lungs). Then comes the good old O-K-L-A-H-O-M-A. Hell yeah son, I am psyched about pulling down at some of the home crags (read: crushing classics) . I'll keep in touch, keep checking back.
(Photo- Taylor Forsythe)
